COZY IN COPENHAGEN – IN SEARCH OF SCANDINAVIAN SERENITY
Oct 15, 2011, 10:40 a.m.
For the last eight television seasons, a counter-terrorist unit agent by the name of Jack Bauer has saved the world from terrorism. Not only does Bauer do his job effectively, he does it expeditiously – in a 24-hour period – thus giving the weekly series, “24,” its name. Over the years, as I watched “24,” I’ve often wondered how I would hold up having to accomplish a task under such clock-ticking duress. I recently found out.
Given 24 hours to explore Copenhagen, Denmark – a place I have always dreamed of visiting –my plan was not only to see as much of the city as possible, but to also do something even more daring than stopping a terrorist attack: go on a quest to experience hygge.
HYGGE?
Hygge (pronounced whoo-guh) is a uniquely Danish word. The closest English definition would be “cozy,” or a feeling that evokes inside warmth. Hygge is more than just sitting by a roaring fire on a winter’s day. It can also mean a good meal with friends or even a fond memory. It is a state of mind as well as a physical state. I think I came close to achieving hygge a couple of times during my youth, but I just didn’t know there was a name for what I was experiencing. Now, I had the opportunity to experience it, on its native soil no less.
8:33 a.m.
I arrived at the beautiful Scandic Copenhagen Hotel, located on a canal in the heart of the city. From my window, I could see a bustling city of green spires, copper-roofed buildings, medieval streets and canals of what once was a humble fishing village. Today, with its population of close to two million, Copenhagen is the largest city in Scandinavia. I was familiar with Denmark’s cradle-to-grave social system which gives everyone the same human rights including health care, education, support for the elderly and handicapped, solid unemployment benefits and livable pensions. Now I was seeing it in action. I was also seeing bicycles everywhere – that, like health care and education – the city provides without cost.
11:37 a.m.
After grabbing a Copenhagen Card – a passport for free admittance to 65 museums, other city attractions and transportation, I hit the streets where over a thousand years of history awaited me.
1:07 p.m.
Tivoli Gardens is an amusement park established in 1843 which reportedly inspired Walt Disney to create Disneyland. It felt like a World Expo with examples of international architecture, fairy-tale gardens, amusement rides and concerts. For lunch, I sampled smørrebrød (an open-faced sandwich), frikadeller (meatballs) and local berries in cream for dessert. I sensed I was nearing hygge.
3:31 p.m.
Strøget – Europe’s longest pedestrian shopping street – is a mile-long strip of shops, cafés and bars. In an odd way, it was cozy being around so many people, but hygge did not come to mind.
4:34 p.m.
Strøget ends at Kongens Nytorv, an old canal area, lined with 17th-century Dutch-style townhouses. Once a haunt for sailors, today it is the place to experience one of Copenhagen’s supreme pleasures – a canal cruise. Attractions include a glimpse of the Royal Yacht, cutting-edge Danish architecture, and the city’s most iconic symbol – The Little Mermaid statue.
7:03 p.m.
Next stop – the city of Christiania. In 1971, an eclectic group of bohemians took over an area of abandoned military barracks and developed their own city – completely independent of the Danish government. Given official status as a social experiment, Christiania consists of dirt roads, funky houses, restaurants, artwork and 850 residents on 85 acres – all less than half a mile from Parliament. There are four laws in Christiania: no weapons, hard drugs, cars or photographs. They’re now facing a current dilemma with the government finally asking that residents pay taxes.
9:32 p.m.
Back to Strøget for dinner in a little cellar café. I had fiskeboller (fish balls) and boiled potatoes. I told the owner it was the best fiskeboller I had ever eaten. He said that the only ones better are the ones prepared by his mother. It was a very hygge thing to say.
1:11 a.m.
I had reserved my final hour in Copenhagen for a reflective walk along the canal. Had I experienced hygge? History, culture, sophisticated people yes – but hygge? I wasn’t sure. Perhaps it was too early to say. Maybe I’ll never really know.
Today
Now, back in Los Angeles, whenever I bask in the memories of my 24 hours in Copenhagen, I suddenly experience a warm sensation inside – at last – Hygge! I wonder if Jack Bauer would have recognized it. Probably not. He would have been too busy saving the world.
For further information on Copenhagen, click on www.denmark.dk/Copenhagen








