by Ed Boitano, “Life After 50” Travel Editor

As recently as 1990, there was little, if any, tourism to the Arctic archipelago of Svalbard, Norway. Located in the Arctic Ocean between the Norwegian mainland and the North Pole, Svalbard (which means “cold edge”) was believed to have been discovered by the Vikings in the 12thcentury. It became a base for many Arctic expeditions and ultimately a home to whalers and coal miners. Over the past two decades, thanks to Hurtigruten, a Norwegian passenger and freight line, it is now on the map for the world to see.

To experience the Arctic Circle has been on my “bucket list” for years. So when Hurtigruten invited me on a cruise to Spitsbergen – the largest island of the Norwegian archipelago of Svalbard – I jumped at the chance.

My adventure began with a flight from Oslo to Longyearbyen. With a population of 1,700, Longyearbyen has the distinction of being the most northern city in the world. Once a mining community, it is now a center for science and tourism. Only four land mammals can survive on this barren tundra: the Svalbard reindeer, the Svalbard mouse, the Arctic fox and the polar bear – the latter which has become the symbol of Svalbard. Encounters with this species are rare, but their presence is felt everywhere. They are known to attack humans on occasion, so people cannot leave settlements without a weapon or armed guide.

My accommodations were at the Spitsbergen Hotel, where, like all the area’s hotels and restaurants, you must follow the tradition of removing your shoes before entering. Longyearbyen also offers shopping, galleries and the Svalbard Museum, an essential stop in preparation for the voyage.

The next day, we boarded the 115-passenger MS Nordstjernen. The oldest ship in the coastal fleet, it maintains the authenticity of a real Arctic expedition vessel. The ship has 54 cabins, all with upper and lower berths. Creature comforts include café, lounge and dining room. Most of the adventure, though, was spent on the wooden deck, where no one wants to miss any of the attractions – clearly in view with 24 hours of sunlight in July.

Heading northwest on the coast of Spitsbergen, I experienced breathtaking fjords, calving glaciers, unique animal and plant life, and a midnight sun that refused to set. More than 60 percent of the archipelago consists of national parks, nature reserves, and bird or plant sanctuaries.

A large number of aquatic mammals inhabit the islands, including whales, seals and walruses. It is also a breeding ground for numerous seabirds. I found a remarkable variety of small flowering plants, which use never-ending daylight to produce colorful blossoms.

After making my way from ship to shore on a tender, I enjoyed tours conducted by the highly skilled Spitsbergen Travel guides – a passionate group of walking encyclopedias on all things Svalbard. They also pulled double duty by carrying rifles to serve as our protectors. Highlights of these tours included a landing at Barentsburg – a Russian mining town that presents relics from the Soviet era. The tour group was also treated to a Russian and Ukrainian folkloric show, and stopped for a taste of vodka at the settlement’s one hotel.

Magadalene Fjorden is where Dutch whalers came to bury their dead in the 17th century. Stone gatherings and wooden coffins still remain, as well as blubber ovens. Ivory gulls made nosedives on the group’s colorful hats when we got too close to their feeding area. Words of caution: don’t look up (if you get my drift)!

Moffen is a flat island and protected reserve, located north of the 80th parallel. An island that's known for its walrus colony, we spotted fifty of the creatures, many larger than two tons. En route, we saw two polar bears on an iceberg who seemed as curious to see us as we were to see them.

Calving glaciers was one of the many marvels of a stop at the Monaco Glacier. We did a tender cruise in front of the glacier and witnessed beluga whales swimming before us. Next was a tour of the former mining community of Ny-Alesund, now an important research station.

On the voyage back to Longyearbyen, we assembled on the deck for the presentation of certificates for crossing the 80th parallel. There were also certificates for those crazy enough to go ice swimming in the Arctic fjords. Yes, I was one of them. If you are a lover of nature and history, this is an adventure of a lifetime with a landscape that is dramatically changing – so my advice is to book your trip now.

For further information, click on www.Hurtigruten.us